No pattern is needed to make a chemise.
CORSET
Many thanks go to Mistress Molly Hathoway and Mistress Genvieve Penrose, from the Barony of
Forgotten Sea,Kingdom of Calontir, for teaching me how to make the most wonderfully comfortable
corset ever.
Equipment needed: paper, tape measure, pencil, T-square ruler and/or yardstick.
You will need the following measurements:
- _____ Bust
- _____ Waist
- _____ Waist to underarm measurement
- _____ Desired length of center front
Step 1
Draw a vertical line the desired length of the center front.
Step 2
Subtract 2" from the bust measurement, and divide that measurement in half.
Draw ahorizontal line from the top of the front measurement out to the left.
Step 3
At the midpoint of the horizontal line, measure 2" to the left and mark. Measure
down from this point 3" for a size D cup or larger. Decrease the number if you are a
smaller cup size. Mark this point A.
Step 4
Measure down 3" from the far end of the horizontal line and mark that point B.
Step 5
From the front center, measure out 1/4 of the horizontal line measurement and mark
this point C.
Step 6
Draw a curved line to connect points C, A, and B. This is the top of your corset.
Step 7
Measure down the length of the underarm to waist measurement from point A. Mark
this point, and draw a horizontal line across the paper.
Step 8
Subtract 2" from the waist measurement and divide that number in half. Measure
out this far to the left along the waistline, mark, and measure down one inch. Label
this point D. Connect D and B to from the back center of the corset.
Step 9
Divide the waist line in half, and mark it point E. Divide each half of the line
in half again, and mark these points F (on the left) and G (on the right).
Step 10
Draw a curved line from the bottom front center of the corset to point G. Make
sure the curve at the bottom center front is wide enough to fit the point of the
busk.
Step 11
Measure up from point E one inch, and mark it. Draw a gentle curve from G to
this mark, back down to F, and then from F to D.
Step 12
To make straps, measure 3" out from the top front center along the top curve.
Mark. Measure 1" further out, and mark. Draw two 5" vertical lines up from these
points, perpendicular to the curve.
Step 13
Measure 3" from the back center and mark. Measure 1" further in, and mark.
Draw lines as in Step 12.
Step 14
Draw a line 3" below and parallel to the waistline, stopping at the hipbone point.
Step 15
Draw in tabs by dividing the waist measurement
by 2-3" to make equal sized tabs.
Step 16
Draw in 1/4" stay channels parallel to the center front.
Step 17
Draw a curved line at breast base to indicate the
area not to be boned on the corset.
Step 18
Draw 1/4" stay channels parallel to center back.
Make stay channels go into tabs as needed.
Step 19
Check to make sure the pattern works by cutting the pattern out
of cheap fabric. Make sure the underarm curves and hip curves are
large enought so that they won't rub against your body. You may have
to move the curves slightly to the fr nt or back to get a perfect fit.
FARTHINGALE
No pattern is needed to make the farthingale.
FARTHINGALE PAD
Equipment needed: paper, tape measure, pencil.
Step 1:
Draw a rectangle 11" by 4.5". Round
the lower corners and raise the upper corner by 1.5 inches.
PETTICOAT
No pattern is needed to make a petticoat.
HOSEN
Many thanks go to Master Roberto di Milano, OL,
from the East Kingdom, for sharing his pattern with me.
This pattern fits up to a 6' man or woman.
Remember to cut all pieces on the grain, not on the bias.
CHEMISE (low neck)
Equipment needed: paper, yardstick, chalk
You will need the following measurements:
- _____ Bust Measurement
- _____ Waist Measurement
- _____ Hip Measurement
- _____ Center back neck to wrist
- _____ Bicep Measurement
- _____ Hand Measurement
- _____ Shoulder to hem
- _____ Shoulder + 2"
Step 1
Lay out the fabric and, using the yardstick and
chalk, mark out a rectangle 27" by 103" long.
Draw a vertical line down the center
of the rectangle to show the shoulder line.
Step 2
Draw a 7" square so that two inches are on
one side of the shoulder line and 5 inches on the
other. This is the neck opening. Round the
corners uniformly. Cut out the opening.
Step 3
For the sleeves cut two rectangles 18 1/2" long and
16 1/2" wide. Mark a point 3 1/2" up from the bottom
of the left side, and a point 3 1/2" down from the top
of the left side. Draw lines from the right top corner
to the upper point on the lefts side of the rectangle,
and from the right bottom corner of the rectangle to
the lower point on the left side. Cut along those
drawn lines.
Step 4
For the gores cut two rectangles of fabric 12" wide
and 29 1/2" long. Draw a diagonal line from one
corner to the other and cut along this line.
This makes 4 gores.
Step 5
For the gussets cut 6" squares. Draw a diagonal
line from one corner to the other and cut along
this line. This makes 4 gussets.
*all measurements in these directions make a chemise to fit a 5'8" woman size 20.
CHEMISE (high neck)
Equipment needed: paper, yardstick, chalk
You will need the following measurements:
- _____ Bust Measurement
- _____ Waist Measurement
- _____ Hip Measurement
- _____ Center back neck to wrist
- _____ Bicep Measurement
- _____ Hand Measurement
- _____ Shoulder to hem
- _____ Shoulder + 2"
- _____ Shoulder point to Neck + 1"
- _____ Neck + 1.5"
Step 1
Lay out chemise pattern using the diagram below and cut out.
CORSET
Materials needed: polished cotton for lining, cotton ticking, cotton duck, and a
fashion fabric as a cover.
Step 1
Lay out and cut pattern pieces from all four fabrics. Place the grainline on the
center front.
FARTHINGALE
These directions are loosely based on the directions in Juan Alcega's
The Tailor's Book. These directions use 60" wide material rather than
the 22" wide material he indicates.
Materials needed: 5 1/2 yards of 60" fabric, 17 yards of boning to stiffen
the skirt, ribbon for ties.
Measurements needed: distance from your waist to the ground. Add 5"
to the measurement and then add 12" onto this measurement for the tucks
to contain the boning. This is measurement A.
Step 1
Fold 10' o the fabric in half lengthwise and
cut out the front and back panels.
Step 2
Take the remaining piece of fabric, and lay it
flat on a table or floor. Cut out the front and
back gores as shown.
FARTHINGALE PAD
Materials Needed: 1 yard of material (cotton duck or drill fabric is best), a bag of
polyester batting, 1 yard of ribbon, silk or cotton and 1/2" to 1" wide to tie the bumroll
closed.
Step 1
Cut out two layers of fabric on the straight of grain.
PETTICOAT
Material needed: 3 yards of 60" wide material
Step 1
Make sure the fabric width is long enough.
Put on whatever foundation garments, such
as farthingale and farthingale pad, that you will be
wearing underneath the petticoat. Take a
tape measure and measure from your waist,
over the farthingale and farthingale pad, down to
the ground. If 60" fabric is not wide enough,
put a strip of contrasting fabric on the bottom
of the petticoat to lengthen it. The strip would
be the finished width of the desired strip, plus 1 inch.
Place the strip of edging fabric and the skirt fabric
right sides together, and sew the pieces together half
an inch away from the edge. Iron this seam flat.
HOSEN
Step 1
Cut out two hosen by laying the pattern on a bias
fold of the fabric. Cut out two of the foot pieces.
General Sewing Tips
- All seams are to have 1/2" seam allowances.
- Zigzag all edges to prevent raveling.
- Backstitch 1/4" at the beginning and end of each seam to keep seam from coming out.
- Pin pieces of fabric being sewn together before sewing to keep fabric from slipping
and edges together while sewing.
- Always put "right" sides of fabric together when sewing.
- Mark "wrong" sides of material if necessary with a chalk pencil or soap as pieces
are cut out.
CHEMISE (low neck)
Step 1
Bind the neck opening with bias made
from the fabric.
Step 2
Attach sleeve gussets to the sleeves.
Step 3
Attach sleeve assembly to the body.
Step 4
Sew the sides together.
Step 5
Hem the bottom and sleeves.
Step 6
Do embroidery around the neck and
sleeve edges.
CHEMISE (high neck)
Step 1
If you are embroidering the wristbands or collar, do it now.
Step 2
Along the top of what will be the front and back
of the shirt mark or pin to divide the fabric into
three equal parts. The center section will be
gathered into a collar. The side sections will need
to be gathered to fit on the shoulder. Arrange the
gathers evenly and sew or pin them in place to
keep them from moving later. Sew the shoulders
together where they are gathered.
Step 3
Lay the sleeve pieces out with the length running
from right to left. Fold in half lengthwise to find
the center, and mark it at each end. One end of
the sleeve will attach to the cuff, the other will
attach to the shirt body.
Step 4
Match up the center mark on the sleeves with the
shoulder seam on the shirt bodies, right sides of
the fabric together. Sew the sleeves on.
Step 5
Sew the long seam from wrist, along the sleeve,
and down the sides of the shirt.
Step 6
On the top of each sleeve, cut a 2 - 3" slit
perpendicular to the edge of the fabric. Cover
the raw edges of the slit with bias tape to match
the fabric.
Step 7
Gather the open end of each sleeve along the raw
edges to fit your wrist measurement E.
Step 8
Place the collar pieces right sides together and sew
along the ends and across the top. Snip the curves,
turn, and press.
Step 9
Fold the bottom (open, unsewn) edge of the collar
up 1/2". Press.
Step 10
Repeat steps 6 - 8 to make the cuffs.
Step 11
Open up each cuff piece and fit the gathered
end of the sleeve into it. Start at the slit, pinning
it securely into one end of the cuff, and arranging
he rest of the gathered sleeve so it all fits evenly.
The opposite end of the cuff should hold the other
side of the tape-covered slit. Pin Securely. Sew.
Step 12
After each cuff is attached, lay out the ribbon and
cut two lengths 18" long. Center each length over
he cuff, on top of the machine stitching and sew
it in place over the seam.
Step 13
In the center front of the shirt body, make a slit about 6" long down from the neckline.
Cover the raw edge with bias tape that matches the fabric.
Step 14
Fold the collar band in half and crease where the back center will be. Also mark the
quarter points. These will mark where the shoulders should match up.
Step 15
Begin by marking the center back of the shirt with a pin. Gather all the fabric into the
neckline until it meets measurement A.
Step 16
Starting at the center back, match up the collar mark and the back of the shirt. Pin
securely. Match up each shoulder seam with the quarter marks on the collar. Pin securely.
Step 17
Gather the rest of the shirt fabric into the collar band and arrange it as evenly as possible.
Step 18
Sew the shirt to the collar.
CORSET
Step 1
Sew the straps to the corset.
Step 2
Mark and sew the boning channels through
all layers except the cover.
Step 3
Insert the boning.
Step 4
Place the corset cover over the other layers
and finish the top and bottom edges by
binding them in bias tape.
Step 5
Place lacing holes 1" apart and at least 1/2"
away from the back center edge.
FARTHINGALE
Step 1
Sew a triangular A gore to either side of the
front rectangle with straight sides matching.
Sew from the bottom up. Don't worry if it
doesn't reach all the way to the top. Trim off
the edges so that the triangular side lines run
straight to the waist.
Step 2
Sew a triangular B gore to either side of the
back rectangle with bias of the gore to the
straight side of the rectangle. Sew from the
top to the bottom.
Step 3
Sew the front and back together at the side
seams. As the farthingale will tie together
at the waist on either side, leave 8" of the
side seam unsewn at the top on either side
so that the farthingale will be able to fit
over your hips.
Step 4
Check the hem to make sure that it is an
even circle all the way around.
Step 5
To make the bottom most casing for the
boning simply turn the hem up at the bottom
1 1/2" from the edge towards the inside. Turn
the top 1/4" in for a finished edge, iron, and
sew the turned edge to the farthingale. This
creates a 1" loop at the bottom. Either leav
a small section unsewn to get the boning inside,
or sew the boning into the casing as you go.
Step 6
Measure up 7" from the bottom casing seam
on the outside of the farthingale, and pinch the
fabric together 1" in on either side from this point.
Pin as you go. Sew along the line of pins.
Step 7
Repeat Step 6 four more times.
Step 8
Mark where the waistband should be by stepping
into the farthingale and lifting it to the proper
height. The front bottom edge should be 3" from
the ground, and the back 2" from he ground.
Step 9
Tie a string around your waist. Pull the
farthingale through under the string. Adjust the
farthingale so that the hem is at the proper height
front and back, and mark where it reaches your
waist. Make sure the waistline is clearly marked
all the way around.
Step 10
Cut two pieces of fabric your waist measurement
by 3" in width. Cut this in half width-wise. Fold
both pieces in half length-wise. Place the ribbon
you'll be using to tie the waistband together
between the two folded halves so that the end of
the ribbon is equal with the end of the fabric.
Do this at both ends. Stitch the folded fabric and
the ribbon together.
Step 11
Trim the farthingale to 1/2" above your waistline
mark. Using a basting stitch run a stitch along the
place you’ve marked as your waistline. Pull the
thread at the end, and gather the fabric to the length
of the waistband.
Step 12
Lay the waistband against the outside of the
farthingale, so that the bottom edge of the
waistband casing is even with the top gathered
edge of the farthingale.
Step 13
Sew one side of the casing to the farthingale
along the waistline mark where the farthingale
was gathered. Turn the waistband up, iron it flat,
and then turn the inside layer of the waistband
so that the edge is finished and hem-stitch it to the
inside of the farthingale.
FARTHINGALE PAD
Step 1
Take the two pieces of the farthingale pad and lay them
right sides together. Cut the yard of ribbon in half,
and place each half between the two layers with the
ends of the ribbon matching the edge of the fabric
and the body of the ribbon between the two pieces
of fabric.
Step 2
Beginning on the inside curve of the roll, sew
all the way around. Make sure to catch the edges
of the ribbon at the points, but don't catch the ribbon
anywhere else. Leave an opening unsewn.
This is to help turn the farthingale pad.
Step 3
Clip seam allowances.
Step 4
Turn the farthingale pad inside out, pulling on the ribbons
to get the points completely turned. Stuff the pad with
batting. Be sure and stuff it quite firmly so that the
farthingale pad is solid to the touch.
Step 5
Using a needle and thread, sew the opening
closed. Knot the ends of the ribbons to keep
them from fraying.
PETTICOAT
Step 1
Sew the fabric into a tube. Start at the bottom
of the skirt and stop sewing around 8" from
the other end.
Step 2
Hem the skirt.
Step 3
Find the waistline. Make the skirt ankle length.
Put on the farthingale pad, farthingale, etc. which will
be worn under the petticoat. Tie a string firmly
around your middle at the point where you
want the waistline to be. Starting with one side
of the 8-inch opening in the petticoat side seam,
place this edge at the place where you want the
petticoat to fasten (back) and pull the top
of the skirt up underneath the string, gathering
as you go, until all of the skirt fabric is gathered
underneath the waistline string. Even out the
gathers as much as you can, and then begin
pulling the fabric down or up as necessary until
the hemline is even. Once you are satisfied the
hemline is even, mark the fabric at the waistline
string with tailor’s chalk. Release the string,
lay out the fabric, and mark a smooth line as close
to the original markings as possible. Trim the fabric
1/2" above this mark.
Step 4
Leaving about 6" at center front flat, pleat the waistline
Run a basting stitch over the pleats, 1/3" away from the
top edge of the petticoat, to keep them in place. Iron
the pleats at the top edge of the skirt once they’re
pinned or basted.
Step 5
Finish the side / back opening by turning the raw
edges under and hemming them down. Reinforce
the bottom of this opening with stitches so that it
won't rip out.
Step 6
Cut a small band of fabric 1 1/2" wide and the length
of your waist measurement plus 2 inches. Place this
band on the right side of the petticoat, with the edge
of the band even with the edge of the pleated
petticoat waistline. Sew the band to the petticoat 1/2"
away from the edge. Reinforce this seam with another
seam, about 1/8" nearer the edge. Trim the excess
fabric off so that 1/3" of fabric remains between the
seam and the top edge of the petticoat. Fold the band
over to the inside, fold the end up, and hand-stitch it
down using a strong quilting thread.
Step 7
Make fasteners by either tying together with ribbons
at either edge of the back opening, or use large, sturdy
hooks and eyes.
HOSEN
Step 1
Stitch the back leg seam.
Step 2
Attach the toe to the leg section.
Step 3
Add the sole.
Garters are used to keep the hosen up. I made mine by knitting (in garter stitch)
a long length 15 stitches wide. To tie, they go around the leg above the knees, cross
behind the knee and come around below the knee to tie with a bow.
