Chemise of unbleached cotton with long tight fitting sleeves.
The cotehardie is a well fitting
one-piece dress with flaring skirt
and long tight sleeves.
The Sideless Surcoat is a continuation of the cyclas from a previous
century but with exaggerated
armhole openings. Usually this
dress was decorated heraldically
with the husband's arms on the right
side, and the wife's arms on the left.
Hair is parted in the center and divided
into two plaits, crossed in back of neck
and brought around sides of head.
The head covering consisted of cauls or
crispinettes over the hair, a gorget, or
a type of veil called a nebule veil.
Shoes were of the turn-shoe style
fastened by lacings. They were
lengthened to an exaggerated toe.
Accessories consisted of a wide, ornate
girdle worn low at hip level.
Jewelry consisted or rings and earrings.
Edward III actively encouraged the weaving trade at this time and many foreign craftsmen
settled in England. This brought a noticeable change in fashion. The sideless surcoat
was the formal over dress now worn over the cotehardie. The cotehardie had the long
sleeves of the under tunic (which was sometimes not worn). The sides of the sideless
surcoat were sometimes mere slits or they could be cut square-shaped. The neck was cut
round and very low, leaving only narrow strips over the shoulders.
Hair was still dressed is large coils over the ears. The cauls were becoming squarer.
The wimple or gorget was frequently worn attached to the hair coils or cauls. A new
pleated style veil called a nebule veil was popular. Veils and throat coverings were the
symbol of wifehood.
Accessories and jewels were the same as the cotehardie. Shoes lengthened to ridiculous
proportions. Chopins were used under the shoes when outdoors.
Colors used for fabric were new bright tan, scarlet, murrey (a deep purple-red), greens,
blues, red, tawney, red-browns, gray. The materials were the same as those used for
Cotehardies.
The motifs used to decorate clothes were all over patterns including the square, lozenge,
star, circle, as well as diagonal and horizontal stripes. Badges or monograms were used as
all over patterns instead of the large heraldic blazonry. Makeup apparently was not used.
Equipment needed: paper, tape measure, pencil, T-square ruler and/or yardstick.
You will need the following measurements: (Where measurements are divided use the number
obtained by division.)
Add 4" to all measurements before dividing.
TORSO MEASUREMENTS
- Back (shoulder point to shoulder point) __________ divide by 2 = __________
- Distance down from neck to front __________
- Distance from nape of neck to waist __________
- Waist (all around a most narrow point __________ divide by 4 = __________
- Distance from nape of neck to floor __________
EACH STEP IS NUMBERED AND SHOULD BE MARKED ON THE PATTERN AS THEY ARE USED. THESE NUMBERS
WILL SERVE AS REFERENCE POINTS.
TORSO PATTERN
- Mark the shoulder point.
- Draw a line 2" toward the center and up 1/4", and make a dot.
- Mark the neckline (front).
- Connect point #2 with point #3 to make the neck.
- Measure down from #1 the distance to the waist and draw a horizontal line. Measure
the number of inches for the waist and make a mark.
- Draw a curved line connecting #1 and #5.
- Draw a vertical line straight up 4" from #5.
- Draw a horizontal line out from #7 as the flair of the skirt.
- Measure down the distance from the nape of neck to the floor.
- Connect #8 and #9 in a curved line.
Remember to cut all pieces on the grain, not the bias.
Step 1
Fold fabric lengthwise.
Step 2
Make pattern using directions above.
Step 3
Cut both front and back of dress.
Remember to make neckline higher in
back to prevent dress from falling off
shoulders.
Step 4
Shorten pattern to hip length and cut
front and back. Use this as the facings.
General Sewing Tips:
- It is very important to pre-shrink all fabric. Treat the fabric as you would after
the garment is complete.
- All seams are to have 1/2" seam allowances.
- Zigzag all edges to prevent raveling.
- Backstitch 1/4" at the beginning and end of each seam to keep seam from coming out.
- Pin pieces of fabric being sewn together before sewing to keep fabric from slipping
and edges together while sewing.
- Always put "right" sides of fabric together when sewing.
- Mark "wrong" sides of material if necessary with a chalk pencil or soap as pieces
are cut out.
Step 1
Sew gores onto skirt of dress. Remember
to lay it on the floor before pinning to make
sure the "right" sides are together.
Step 2
Put any appliques and decorations on the skirt
at this time.
Step 3
Open up the front and back of the dress and put
the "right" sides together. Sew shoulders
together and zigzag edges.
Step 4
Without separating the front and back of the
dress, sew the side seams together from armpit
to hem. The zigzag the edges.
Step 5
Sew shoulders of facing together.
Step 6
Sew side seam of facing together.
Step 7
Pin "right" side of facing to "right" sides
of dress and stitch all armhole edges and
neckline edges. Match shoulder seams.
Do not zigzag edges.
Step 8
Clip the seam allowance around the curve
of the neck and armholes. This allows the
fabric to lay down better after the facing
is turned.
Step 9
Turn the facing inside out and iron it down at
the neck. Then, topstitch along the neckline 1/4"
from the edge. This keeps the facing from
turning back over as easily. "Tack" the facing
down at each of the seams. This does more
of the same.
Step 10
Hem the bottom of the dress with a rolled hem.
Step 1
Use a rectangle at least 14" by 25". Measure 2" in from each short side and place a mark.
Step 2
Draw a line from the mark to the upper corner on each side.
Step 3
Pleat both of the short edges of the rectangle until the sides measure 4".
Step 4
Bind each of the pleated sides with a 1" strip made from the remnant left from cutting the
triangle from Step 1.