FOUR WAYS TO LOOK MORE MEDIEVAL
- Wear some kind of headcovering. It is warm in the winter, protects from the sun in the summer, and completes the look of your clothing.
- Wear more than one layer. An undertunic can act as a "t-shirt" so that you don't have to wash your fancy overtunic which you have spent so much time hand embroidering. Having extra absorbent fabric, such as linen, next to you in the summer will keep you more comfortable.
- Use enough material. Skirts and tunics should have a good amount of fullness in the hem. It makes it easier to move, and looks very nice. In addition, skirts on women should go to at least the ankle (not mid-calf) and to the floor is better.
- Enjoy yourself! By changing into "garb", you can change your outlook on the world from modern to medieval. It can mark the difference between "the real world" and the Society.
LAYOUT AND CUTTING DETAILS
MATERIALS
- You need a piece of 54" - 60" wide fabric that is twice the desired length of the tunic.
- modern shirt that fits comfortably
- bias tape
Many people find cotton to be an economical substitute to linen and wool. If you choose to use cotton, you will be happier in pure cotton than in polyester-cotton blends. In general, a woven geometric pattern that is symmetrical will look believable. During the middle ages, colors varied greatly, so don't worry too much about that as long as they are colors that can be made by natural means. I recommend that you stay away from florescent and pearlized colors.
Step 1
Take the fabric and fold it in half from selvage to selvage then fold it in half lengthwise. (A selvage is the finished edge of the fabric).
Step 2
Use chalk and the shirt, folded in half lengthwise, to draw the outline of the tunic on the fabric as shown. Cut out the outline.
Step 3
Create the keyhole neckline by measuring around your neck and adjusting the circle shape until you have one that looks like the diagram below. It is also important to determine the depth of the slit in front. Take the difference between your neck measurement and your head measurement and divide in half. This is the minimum amount of slit that you will need to get the opening over your head. You may make the slit longer if desired. Draw the neck opening on the fabric, centering as shown. Be very careful to cut the opening and the slit along the grain of the fabric.
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CONSTRUCTION NOTES
General Sewing Tips:
- It is very important to pre-shrink all fabric. Treat the fabric as you would after the garment is complete.
- All seams are to have 1/2" seam allowances.
- Zigzag all edges to prevent raveling.
- Backstitch 1/4" at the beginning and end of each seam to keep seam from coming out.
- Pin pieces of fabric being sewn together before sewing to keep fabric from slipping and edges together while sewing.
- Always put "right" sides of fabric together when sewing.
- Mark " wrong" sides of material if necessary with a chalk pencil or soap as pieces are cut out.
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SEWING DIRECTIONS
Step 1
Finish the neckline edge any way you prefer. You may create a facing, or a more period method would be to bind the neckline edge with bias tape. Start the bias tape at the center back or at the bottom of the slit.
Step 2
Attach whatever trim is desired, now, while the garment is flat. Good choices of location for trim is around the neck and at the arm bicep or sleeve edge. Mostly it seems that the hems were not embellished in the middle ages. Choices of patterns for trim can include just about anything that doesn't look too modern such as diamonds, circles, squares, rectangles, elaborate birds and beasts. Don't use animals or flowers that look too realistic. Stay away from anything obviously made wiht mylar, pearls, or pearlized colors.
Step 3
Sew the side seams together.
Step 4
Hem the garment. Be sure that the fullness at the sides of the body is rounded so that the hem does not hang down unevenly.
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Accessories
Hats
One of the most useful thing to own is some kind of headwear. Not only does it protect your head from the sun or the cold, but it keeps off random dirt and helps prevent hair tangles.
Cap or Coif
Only very rarely would an adult be seen without some type of hat. Coifs are wonderful for keeping the head warm, or for absorbing sweat under a helmet. Coifs can be made from linen, wool, or to save money, from cotton. This pattern is for the pre-1500 style that is one or two pieces.
Fold a piece of white linen or cotton in half. The edges should stop at the bottom of your ears. Have a friend pin the fabric along the top and back of your head to make it snug. Sew on the pinned line. Trim off the peak and add ties.
After 1500 the 3-piece coif became more popular. (That pattern is below.) This design eliminates the wrinkles at the top of the head by having a strip that runs from the forehead to the nape of the neck. It is fairly self explanatory.
Veils
Women's veils were circles of white cloth (usually linen) held on with bands of the same fabric. Use opaque lightweight fabric. Sometimes veils were square and used as a shawl over the tops of the shoulders, but for a beginning veil I recommend a round veil, about 1' in radius (2' in diameter). The bands that hold the veil on are thin strips, about 1" wide, and about a foot and a half long. Fasten the first one with a straight pin under your chin and passing over the top of your head, just forward of your ears. Pin the next one across your forehead, circling your head parallel to the ground. Fasten it also to the chin band where they cross. The veil is then pinned to the bands at the center front, center top, and the sides where it lies over the crossed bands over your ears.
Belts
Belts during this time were not very complicated. A belt a few inches longer than your waist, with a simple buckle is all that is needed. The extra length of belt is then knotted around the buckle. The diagram shows a belt fragment, still in a knot, with buckle and all.
Belt Pouches
Another thing that is very, very useful for SCA clothing is a belt pouch. We all need a way to carry our authorization cards. driver's license, car keys, etc. The belt pouch is one way to do this. Most illustrations of the time period show the pouches hanging around the knee to lower thigh of the wearer. The basic pouch can be made out of leather or fabric. The easiest method is to take a simple U shape, sew along the bottom and edges, and put a drawstring at the top. If you want to get fancy you can line it or decorate it.
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Generic Gathered Skirt
LAYOUT AND CUTTING DETAILS |
CONSTRUCTION NOTES |
SEWING DIRECTIONS |
LAYOUT AND CUTTING DETAILS
MATERIALS
- 4 yards of 54" fabric
- sewing thread
- skirt hooks and eyes (size 14 or larger)
- trim as desired
MEASUREMENTS
- _____ A = waist measurement x 3 + 1/4 yard
- _____ B = waist measurement + 4"
- _____ C = waist to the floor + 4"
Cut a length of fabric to measurement A. The width of 54" or 60" fabric will usually allow for measurement C.
Cut a 1/4 yard strip of length B for the waistband.
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CONSTRUCTION NOTES
General Sewing Tips:
- It is very important to pre-shrink all fabric. Treat the fabric as you would after the garment is complete.
- All seams are to have 1/2" seam allowances.
- Zigzag all edges to prevent raveling.
- Backstitch 1/4" at the beginning and end of each seam to keep seam from coming out.
- Pin pieces of fabric being sewn together before sewing to keep fabric from slipping and edges together while sewing.
- Always put "right" sides of fabric together when sewing.
- Mark " wrong" sides of material if necessary with a chalk pencil or soap as pieces are cut out.
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SEWING DIRECTIONS
Step 1
Cut out all pieces and label for ease of identification.
Step 2
Fold the quarter yard in half, right sides together the long way and mark the waist measurement B on it. (If your waist is larger than the length of fabric, you will need to piece it until it is long enough to go around your waist, plus 4" of overlap.) Mark down from the fold 2 1/2".
Step 3
Pin the folded fabric so it stays in place and cut out the waistband piece. Cut out an interfacing piece the exact size of the waist + 4" without the seam allowance.
Step 4
Layer the pieces with the folded waistband on the bottom and the interfacing on top. Sew the seams on either end of the waistband. DO NOT sew up the long side.
Step 5
Turn the waistband inside out, so the right sides of the fabric are on the outside and the interfacing is inside. Carefully position the interfacing so it is in the right place. Smooth the fold on the top of the band. Tuck up the long raw edge 1/2" so the two open edges can be hemmed. You will be stuffing the skirt yardage into this band.
Step 6
From one end mark your actual waist measurement. The rest will be overlap with hooks. Disregarding the overlap, mark the middle and quarter points on the waistband. These marks will be used to align the skirt fabric. Make a note of the distance between the 1/4 marks.
Step 7
Lay out the length of fabric and fold it in half. Mark the center point of the top edge. Fold in half again and mark the two quarter points. Make these marks easy to find (safety pins work well).
Step 8
Match the two ends of the skirt length, the raw edges, and sew them from the bottom hem to about 8" from the top.
Step 9
Using a long thread, take gathering stitches in the top 1/2" of fabric until you have gathered that piece of skirt to approximately the same measurement as the 1/4 mark on the waistband. Gather all four sections of the skirt separately as it is easier to adjust later. Start with the two center marks, and align the center back of the waistband with the center mark on the skirt. Pin. Match up the 1/4 marks and pin.
Step 10
Match up the end of the waistband with one end of the skirt, and the other end of the skirt with the mark that measures the actual waistband. Be sure to leave the overlap without and fabric gathered into it.
Step 11
Work with each section to fit it into the waistband; pull in or let out the gathers as needed to fit all the fabric in more or less equally. Pin securely.
Step 12
Sew the skirt into the bottom hem of the waistband. I find that hand stitching this makes a neater finished product. Attach skirt hooks.
Step 13
Hem the bottom of the skirt. Add decorative trim at this time.
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Generic Shirt
LAYOUT AND CUTTING DETAILS |
MEASUREMENTS |
CONSTRUCTION NOTES |
SEWING DIRECTIONS |
By the 1500's the shirt had come into being as an article of clothing. It was worn underneath a vest, jacket, doublet, or other piece of outerwear. The shirt was considered to be underwear and people didn't go out without anything else on.
LAYOUT AND CUTTING DETAILS
MATERIALS
- 2 yards of 45" fabric
- sewing thread
MEASUREMENTS
- _____ A = Neck circumference + 1"
- _____ B = Wrist circumference + 1"
- _____ C = Shoulder point to shoulder point + 1"
- _____ D = Shoulder to knee
- _____ E = Shoulder to wrist + 4"
Step 1
Cut two body rectangles using measurement D x C.
Step 2
Take measurement E and mark out two sleeve rectangles that long and 1/2 fabric width.
Step 3
Cut the collar and cuff bands where the length of each piece is taken from measurement A + 1" for the collar and measurement B plus 1" for each wrist. Make the collar 2" at its widest point (plus 1" for seam allowance). Cut 2 collar pieces. Cut the cuffs about 2" wide (plus 1" for seam allowance). Round the ends of the collar and cuffs. To get the curves even, fold the fabric in half and cut both curves at the same time.
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CONSTRUCTION NOTES
General Sewing Tips:
- It is very important to pre-shrink all fabric. Treat the fabric as you would after the garment is complete.
- All seams are to have 1/2" seam allowances.
- Zigzag all edges to prevent raveling.
- Backstitch 1/4" at the beginning and end of each seam to keep seam from coming out.
- Pin pieces of fabric being sewn together before sewing to keep fabric from slipping and edges together while sewing.
- Use French seams for construction which means that "wrong" sides are sewn together first. Then the fabric is flipped and sewn again, "right" sides together.
- Mark "wrong" sides of material if necessary with a chalk pencil or soap as pieces are cut out.
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SEWING DIRECTIONS
Step 1
Along the top of what will be the front and back of the shirt mark or pin to divide the fabric into three equal parts. The center section will be gathered into a collar. The side sections will need to be gathered to fit on the shoulder. Arrange the gathers evenly and sew or pin them in place to keep them from moving later. Sew the shoulders together where they are gathered.
Step 2
Lay the sleeve pieces out with the length running from right to left. Fold in half lengthwise to find the center, and mark it at each end. One end of the sleeve will attach to the cuff, the other will attach to the shirt body.
Step 3
Match up the center mark on the sleeves with the shoulder seam on the shirt bodies, right sides of the fabric together. Sew the sleeves on.
Step 4
Sew the long seam from wrist, along the sleeve, and down the sides of the shirt.
Step 5
On the top of each sleeve, cut a 2 - 3" slit perpendicular to the edge of the fabric. Cover the raw edges of the slit with bias tape to match the fabric.
Step 6
Gather the open end of each sleeve along the raw edges to fit your wrist measurement E.
Step 7
Place the collar pieces right sides together and sew along the ends and across the top. Snip the curves, turn, and press.
Step 8
Fold the bottom (open, unsewn) edge of the collar up 1/2". Press.
Step 9
Repeat steps 6 - 8 to make the cuffs.
Step 10
Open up each cuff piece and fit the gathered end of the sleeve into it. Start at the slit, pinning it securely into one end of the cuff, and arranging he rest of the gathered sleeve so it all fits evenly. The opposite end of the cuff should hold the other side of the tape-covered slit. Pin Securely. Sew.
Step 11
After each cuff is attached, lay out the ribbon and cut two lengths 18" long. Center each length over he cuff, on top of the machine stitching and sew it in place over the seam.
Step 12
In the center front of the shirt body, make a slit about 6" long down from the neckline. Cover the raw edge with bias tape that matches the fabric.
Step 13
Fold the collar band in half and crease where the back center will be. Also mark the quarter points. These will mark where the shoulders should match up.
Step 14
Begin by marking the center back of the shirt with a pin. Gather all the fabric into the neckline until it meets measurement A.
Step 15
Starting at the center back, match up the collar mark and the back of the shirt. Pin securely. Match up each shoulder seam with the quarter marks on the collar. Pin securely.
Step 16
Gather the rest of the shirt fabric into the collar band and arrange it as evenly as possible.
Step 17
Sew the shirt to the collar.
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Generic Pants
A lot of medieval costumes, especially for men, call for pants. These pants are very simple to make and do not require much fabric. These pants may not look pretty, but I promise you, your fighter will never pop the crotch seam!
LAYOUT AND CUTTING DETAILS | CONSTRUCTION NOTES |
SEWING DIRECTIONS |
LAYOUT AND CUTTING DETAILS
MATERIALS
- twice the length desired +1/2 yard of 45" fabric
- sewing thread
MEASUREMENTS
- _____ A = Hip at the widest + 4"
- _____ B = Thigh at the widest + 4"
- _____ C = Crotch length / 2
- _____ D = Inseam to ankle + 1"
- _____ E = waist to ankle + 1"
NOTE: To get the crotch length, use a tape to measure around the middle of the body from the point where the top of the pants will be in front to where the top will be in the back, passing the tape between the legs. The tape should remain fairly loose when making this measurement. Divide this measurement by 2 to get the final crotch length.
Step 1
Take measurement E and cut the yardage into two equal pieces that length. Each will become
a pants leg.
Step 2
Using chalk, draw a line horizontally across the fabric. Make the line 1/2 A minus 4". For example, if A=54", then 1/2 A = 27. By subtracting 4" from that = 22". Measure down 2" for the waist band and then begin step 3.Step 3
Take measurement C and mark a curved line on each piece as shown in the diagram to form the front crotch line.Step 4
To make the back crotch line, go to the other side of the fabric, measure 1/2 of A, and mark this point. From there go down 18" and over 4". Connect these two points with a curved line. Mark this line "A".Step 5
Mark an angled line from front and back crotch points to the length desired. Taper as desired.Step 6
To make the gusset, cut a rectangle 18" long by about 8" wide. Fold that
rectangle in half lengthwise. Measure down 10"and from that point trim to about 4".
Back to Generic Pants Top
CONSTRUCTION NOTES
General Sewing Tips:
- It is very important to pre-shrink all fabric. Treat the fabric as you would after the garment is complete.
- All seams are to have 1/2" seam allowances.
- Zigzag all edges to prevent raveling.
- Backstitch 1/4" at the beginning and end of each seam to keep seam from coming out.
- Pin pieces of fabric being sewn together before sewing to keep fabric from slipping and edges together while sewing.
- Always put "right" sides of fabric together when sewing.
- Mark "wrong" sides of material if necessary with a chalk pencil or soap as pieces are cut out.
Back to Generic Pants Top
SEWING DIRECTIONS
Step 1
Sew inseams for both legs to within 2" of the short edge.
Step 2
Sew the long edge of the gusset to the back crotch curve on each pants leg.
Step 3
Sew the front crotch seam.
Step 4
Sew the remainder of the inseam together making sure to open all seam allowances and to match the edges.
Step 5
Baste center front seam allowance flat.
Step 6
Turn under the waistband 1/4" and sew.
Step 7
Measure down 1 1/4" on center front seam and sew two button holes - 1 on each side of the seam. Slit the button holes open.
Step 8
Turn the waist band down 1" and sew the fabric down to make a hem casing to thread a drawstring through.
Step 9
Hem the bottom of the legs.
Bag Lining a Garment
This is a method of lining a garment that I find simple and fast. It is not competition worthy.
Step 1
Complete the garment. If you have a serger, go ahead and serge-finish the seam allowances of both the garment and lining hems, side seams, sleeve hems, and underarm seams.
Step 2
Create a temporary hem on the garment. Hand baste all hems 1/4" up from the hem's fold. Steam press the folds.
Step 3
Complete the lining. Be sure and leave one side seam open through which you'll turn the garment right side out. Press all of the lining seams.
Step 4
Sew the lining to the garments front edges and hem, but leave unsewn the bottom 3" of the facing hems. Sew the garment and lining bottom together.
Step 5
Turn the garment by reaching through the opening. Grab the back neck area of the garment, pull the garment right side out through the opening.
Step 6
Sew the hem in place.
Step 7
Sew the sleeve lining hems to the garments sleeve hems.
Step 8
Hand stitch the lining's side seam opening closed.
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